We highlight six designers using unexpected materials to create today’s most collectible designs.
Top international fairs such as Art Basel and TEFAF (the European Fine Art Fair) are embracing an emerging contemporary-art category—one realized in gemstones and diamonds. Exhibited alongside Picasso paintings and Giacometti sculptures are often works by the likes of Hemmerle, Suzanne Syz, and Wallace Chan—pieces that transform stones, metal, and unexpected materials into arresting jewelry. The six jewelers shown here are among today’s most collectible.
These earrings featuring eye-catching spinels, bright blue ceramic, and spiky reverse-set diamonds illustrate Givenchy’s bold style. Anything but conventional, the designer is known for creating wearable statement pieces such as these, as well as rings highlighting important diamonds in minimalist settings that seem to float the stones over the finger (212.421.6222).
Hemmerle pendant necklace
This fourth-generation German jewelry house forges striking designs of exceptional diamonds and gemstones with metals such as iron and copper echoing the Bauhaus aesthetic. Hemmerle is pursued by art collectors who are drawn to its strong, sleek image, as illustrated in these earrings of diamonds, copper, and white gold and the aquamarine pendant necklace with turquoise, gold, silver, and onyx (+49.8924.22.600).
Wallace Chan rosewood earrings
Designer Wallace Chan transforms stones into magnificent sculptural art—one such example being the four amethyst rocks he carved into butterfly wings that appear as though they could take flight. Some collectors of his work request pedestals so they can display his jewelry creations as art, while others prefer to wear his imaginative designs, like these rosewood earrings wrapped in a titanium ribbon of rubies, sapphires, aquamarines, pink tourmalines, and yellow and white diamonds.
Cindy Chao’s Winter Leaves brooches
Influenced by her passion for contemporary art, Suzanne Syz creates jewelry that is bold, bright, and spirited. The Geneva-based designer is known for pop-art- inspired pieces—such as her diamond-emblazoned Life Savers series shaped like the round candy—and favors mouthwatering stones like the 7.6-carat tsavorite in this Spring Blossoming ring (+41.22310.2084).
Robb Report | November 2017